The iconic train journey from Kandy to Ella (or vice versa) is considered one of the most scenic train rides in the world. And for good reason.
Yes, it can be hot, long and hectic but it is also breathtaking and a must-do activity whilst in Sri Lanka.
The train journey will take 6-7 hours (with no delays) and winds its way along 114 kilometres past misty mountains, lush tea plantations, beautiful valleys, dense forests and cascading waterfalls.
There are only a handful of trains that run this journey each day. Make sure you check the latest timetable before embarking on this journey.
Related blog posts to read:
- Best Place To Stay When You Arrive In Sri Lanka
- The Best Travel Route & Itinerary For Sri Lanka
- 10 Things I’ve Learnt After One Month in Sri Lanka
- How to Navigate Public Transport in Sri Lanka
- Checking In: Morven Hotel, Colombo, Sri Lanka
Top tip: for mobile data around Sri Lanka, we used the Airalo eSim. This was super handy and easily installed onto our phones as soon as we landed in Colombo!
My top tips for a successful journey on the famous Kandy to Ella train
1. Arrive early
Time tables for public transport in Sri Lanka seem to be more of a guide than an exact time. Always give yourself a large buffer. This journey has also exploded on social media, so expect a lot of tourists at the station and know that you won’t be the only travellers taking this trip.
2. Be prepared for delays
Train delays happen frequently throughout Sri Lanka, and Kandy to Ella is no exception. The train will always eventually come, so we would advise to make sure you don’t have a strict schedule to stick to.
If you do, then travelling by taxi is probably the way to go in Sri Lanka rather than public transport.
3. Secure your tickets
For the organised traveller, tickets go on sale 30 days before the day of travel and sell out quite fast. As this trip is now so popular, many local agencies scoop up all of the tickets and then sell them for inflated prices. This is the best way to guarantee you will have a seat, but be prepared to pay inflated tourist prices.
For the more flexible traveller (like us), show up on the day, purchase your ticket and hope for the best. There doesn’t seem to be a cap on standing tickets, so if you are told the tickets are sold out, it’s likely they are assuming you want seated tickets. Make sure to state that you would like to buy standing tickets.
4. Choose your class
Ticket prices vary from roughly 200 LKR to 3000 LKR depending on which class of ticket you purchase. Here’s a breakdown of your options:
First Class Observation: This carriage is at the rear of the train and has large panoramic windows. There is no air-conditioning in this carriage, but some of the windows do open. It’s worth noting this carriage travels backwards, so best to avoid this option if you get travel sick very easily.
First Class: This is the most comfortable carriage option that comes with air-conditioning and leather seats. However, the windows and doors don’t open so it’s not the best for taking pictures, which is the main reason a lot of people take this train. It’s also worth noting for your expectations, that first class in Sri Lanka won’t be the same as a first class carriage in the UK/US.
Second Class Reserved: If possible, I would recommend this carriage. You will have guaranteed seats and the doors and windows are open for the full length of the journey providing a breeze and perfect photo shoot opportunities.
*Second Class Unreserved (Our choice): The same as second class reserved, but is a free-for-all when it comes to securing seats. It’s a lot more chaotic and busy and will have a lot of people standing in the aisles and doorways. This is the ticket we bought on the day but thankfully we ended up getting seats (thanks to our hack – detailed below!).
Third Class Reserved: The same as second class reserved but a little less comfortable and less spacious.
Third Class Unreserved: Also the same as second class unreserved but more chaotic, less spacious and the option chosen by most locals, so it will be busy.
5. Pack essentials
If possible, I would recommend to pack light and only bring what you need. The trains can get very packed and the less you have, the easier you will find it. Obviously, if you are backpacking around Sri Lanka like we were, then this might not be possible.
There is no real etiquette when it comes to luggage storage. If you see a gap above you, store your bag as soon as possible. If not, put it on the floor by your feet and people will walk around it. Some travellers even use their bags as seats in the doorways.
6. Positivity is key
The journey to Ella can be bumpy, long, and delayed. The toilets probably smell, the carriages can be incredibly crammed and too hot. However, the views and experience more than make up for all of this.
It’s all about mindset. Don’t forget you are currently travelling through the stunning country of Sri Lanka!
7. Timing is key
I recommend getting the earliest train of the day. No one likes an early alarm on a holiday (especially us), but it’s definitely worth it.
You’ll also have to factor in time to purchase tickets and for any rush hour traffic from your accommodation. Note that the day starts very early in Sri Lanka because of the heat. You may be used to rush hour being from 8-9am at home, but Sri Lanka’s rush hour begins at 7am, if not earlier.
8. Do it for the ‘Gram…. But don’t die for the ‘Gram
You’ve more than likely seen the very cool photos and videos of people hanging from the moving train. Sri Lanka’s health and safety is pretty relaxed, so no one is going to stop you from putting your head out of the window. Or sitting with your legs outside of the train, or even hanging your body out of the door. All whilst the train is moving at full speed!
The only advice I can give is, please don’t be stupid. This is a moving train, there are constant tunnels and narrow passages on the journey, including corners which you can’t see around.
If you’d like to take ‘the photo’, try and do this when the train is moving slower or has just taken off from a station with a clear open path. Don’t be a statistic for a few likes, as there have been many accidents.
9. The best angle for your risky photo
Having said all that, if you are going to take a picture or video, the best way is to have someone take your photo from the next doorway or a few windows down.
Just remember to be careful! It’s worth noting that people will stand near the doors the entire journey and claim a spot. Politely ask them if you can jump in for a quick photo and I’m sure they will gladly move.
Remember, the train journey is seven hours long. If you get up to take a photo (or fifty) at the start, you may lose your seat and be standing for the remainder of the journey.
But on the flip side, as the train makes its way to Ella, the carriages get busier and busier with more passengers, so don’t leave it too long or the train may be too full for you to move to get your picture.
10. Where should I sit?
Supposedly, the optimal seating plan is to sit on the right side from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya, then switch to the left side from Nuwara Eliya to Ella. However, with the very limited seating options, this more than likely won’t be possible.
If you see a free seat I’d advise you to take it, and don’t worry about what side it’s on. We sat on the left hand side for the entire journey and had incredible views.
11. How comfortable is it?
We managed to secure seats in the Second Class Unreserved carriage all the way from Kandy and found the journey very comfortable and spacious. Naturally your comfort level will depend on how much you are willing to spend, and if you are able to secure seats and space for your luggage.
12. Preparation is key
Fail to prepare, prepare to fail. Although there are regular food and drink sellers coming through the train, I would recommend purchasing some water and snacks before you arrive at the station – don’t forget, the journey is seven hours long!
Also, when you arrive at the station, ask someone where your carriage is likely to arrive on the platform to give yourself the best possible chance of getting a seat. You don’t want to be standing on the wrong end of the platform when the train arrives.
Some further advice, make sure to play it safe the night before the train with what you choose to eat. It wouldn’t be the best time to try some street food if you need close-proximity access to a toilet the next day.
13. Prepare for pushing
In the UK and Ireland, queuing is something that we naturally follow without even thinking. However, in other parts of the world, this custom is not followed quite as strongly (to put it lightly).
Be prepared for crowding and pushing, as this journey is very popular amongst tourists and locals. Stand your ground, and you may have to put some politeness to the side for a few minutes while on the hunt for seats. It’s every person for themselves on this train journey.
Try to remain respectful and don’t be forceful or aggressive, but you may need to leave your manners on the train platform.
14. Slow travel
Why not embrace the idea of slow travel? The train is not an express train and stops in several locations. Perhaps you might want to look into breaking the 7-hour journey up and spend a night or two in one of the lesser known spots.
This gives you a chance to experience the train twice, but may impact your chance of getting a seat if you do not book in advance.
15. Securing a seat
If you don’t have a reserved ticket then securing a seat is really down to luck. But the good news is, there are a few ways you can increase your chances:
- Try positioning yourself on the platform near the doors to get on first
- Ask someone that’s already in a seat what stop they are getting off at
- Or you can do what we did, and get on the train a few stops before – more to come in another blog post!
Leave a Reply